dare2go

Columbia River Gorge


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After that experience, we felt that any other outside sightseeing could wait for clearer weather. We decided to drive on to Hood River and from there turn south toward Mt Hood and away from the river, to find a campground away from the Interstate and the train line! We drove east again and just past the Ainsworth State Park Campground we rejoined the Interstate 84 as we had reached the end of that drivable section of the Historic Highway.
On the way we reached the exit sign for the Bonneville Dam and thought that it was just the weather to watch salmon and various other fish going up the fish ladders. The Bonneville Dam was constructed between 1933 and 1937 to provide Hydro-electric power to the north-west. Unfortunately in the process the raised water level submerged many of the rivers natural, historical, cultural and scenic sites forever. We spent an hour or so looking around, mostly observing the fish through glass windows as they battle the current and pass through the fish ladders on their way upstream.
When we emerged, it was to discover that the rain seemed to have passed by and the sun was trying to shine. We drove on towards Hood River, stopping briefly at another overlook - Mitchell Point. Hood River is a pleasant looking town, with lots of lovely old wooden houses. We stopped only briefly, as it was getting late in the day. As planned, we turned south along the 35 to find a campground away from the highway and train noise that you can't avoid in the Gorge. On the way we passed many orchards and also signs for roadside stalls selling mostly cherries - I guess we'll have to stop at one of those on the way back in tomorrow, I found myself thinking, as cherries are probably Juergen's favourite fruit! We found what we were looking for just outside of Parkdale - The Toll Bridge Park. It is a county park and offers full hook-ups for $20. There were no highways and no train lines anywhere in sight - just a river babbling nearby. It was very peaceful and exactly what we were looking for.
On the way back to Hood River the next day, we noticed someone stopped, taking photos in the direction we were coming from. A quick check in the rear view mirror showed a very scenic view of Mt Hood, in brilliant sunshine and with just a little cloud brushing its peak. We of course stopped and got our camera out as well. We hadn't even noticed it as we drove out the day before because it was still so overcast and low cloud completely obscured it. As we got closer to Hood River, we then got a really scenic view of Mt Adams, also a snow covered volcano of the Cascades in Washington, in full sunshine and with clouds just hovering around its peak. So there were many photos of snow-capped mountains taken that day (13th of July = middle of summer)! We also stopped to buy cherries, but at a rather well established 'roadside stall'. This particular stall was actually quite a large shop with a bakery out the back - Packer Orchards and Bakery - and sold many things beside fresh cherries and other berries that are currently in season. They had a whole selection of homemade jams and also the biggest cookies I've seen in a while - must have a diameter of at least 10 centimetres. They also sold various fruit flavoured ice cream and offered a variety of smoothies and shakes. It seemed to be a fairly popular place with locals and passers-by alike.
Between Hood River and Mosier upstream is a section of the Historic Highway, part of which you can drive and part of which is open to foot and bicycle traffic. We took the 84 to Mosier and drove back to the beginning of the walking trail, as we only wanted to walk as far as the Mosier Twin Tunnels, and they were much closer to that end. The walk is about a mile and you are rewarded with great views of the river and gorge as well as the experience of actually walking through these tunnels. They were filled with rock when the 84 was opened in the 1950s, but with the push to restore as much of this Historic Highway as possible, they have been re-opened to walkers and cyclists. We found some graffiti carved into the rock wall by some unfortunate travellers who were snowbound there in the 1920s for 8 days - that sends your mind to imagining how terrible that experience must have been!
From this trailhead, the road continues east, all the way to The Dalles. We followed it and were amazed that the landscape had suddenly changed dramatically. I had read that the twin tunnels connecting Hood River and Mosier also linked the wet western end of the Gorge with the dry eastern Columbia River Plateau, but I wasn't prepared for it to be so obvious. Gone were the forest covered cliff faces and in their place the landscape was totally barren. We stopped first at the Memaloose Overlook - this viewpoint is named for the island below in the river, which was once a Native American burial site. The island is only a small part of its original size since the building of the Bonneville Dam - one of the historic/cultural losses previously mentioned.
The next overlook - Rowena Crest - has a view that rivals the view from Crown Point. Here you really notice the change in the landscape - there is almost a line obvious where it changes from lush forest to barren glacial formed landscape. We drove on into The Dalles and across the bridge into Washington. Our plan was to drive back down the Gorge on the Washington side. We drove downstream as far as White Salmon, which is directly across the river from Hood River, and stayed in the Bridge RV Park and Campground. We knew this would once again have traffic noise and there is also a train line that follows this side of the river, but we needed to do our laundry and they offered free wireless internet access. This must be one of the cleanest and well looked after RV Parks we have stayed in - the bathrooms were immaculate, and in the laundry you felt like your clothes may come out of the washing machines cleaner than they went in (this is not always the case!). The trains were a problem overnight and the sleep wasn't the best, but otherwise I would really recommend a stop at this Park.
Today we drove the 70 miles back to Vancouver along the 14. On this side of the river, the road is mostly just 2 lanes and not as busy as the interstate on the Washington side, so it is possible to drive it in a leisurely fashion and take in the sights. For the most part it runs right along the riverbank, until Skamania where it begins to climb through the forest. We stopped along that part on top of a very tall cliff (Cape Horn), which once again afforded us a superb view of the Gorge. As we approached Vancouver, the river was lost from view and we were in the city mode of a freeway once again.
The trip down this Gorge is definitely not to be missed. It is a mighty river and the landscape is stunning. We are glad we took the time to include it rather than just following the coast to Canada.
Back in Vancouver, we checked the Post Office again, with not much more success than on Monday, and then drove north to a campground near Battleground - close enough to check the mail again tomorrow and far enough away to be free from highway and train noise!